Day 22- 23 35 miles
The Abiquiu Inn was a treat the first afternoon so we booked a 2 bed for the second
night and ended up in a two room suite, which allowed us space to spread out and the
kids to watch tv late into the night. We have a TV for watching movies at home but the
attraction of tens if not hundreds of channels is a huge treat for the kids and we
sometimes wonder if we are riding for the "rest days". Internet and cell service was
limited or non existent but we were able to update a few things.
We rolled out on our 23rd day with the idea of a shorter day. The kids were motivated
after rest and food and we had a good day climbing back into the mountains, as the day
wore down we dropped down into one of the older "villages" of New Mexico where we
were greeted by packs of dogs, unfriendly homeowners, a wacky woman who wanted to
tell us her and her family history and mosquitos so thick that we were bloodied and
bumped for at least 5 more days. The bummer was our water source for the night was
the river in town and after about ten strokes on the "new" working water pump it broke!
for those tuning in late our brand new filter/ pump broke the second time we used it. we
got a new handle in the mail a week later and now the second time after getting the new
handle the pump itself broke..... Less than 30 liters of water and the pump was toast.
This was some expensive water... with the cost of the pump water was costing us about
8 bucks a gallon. We were in the start of another stretch of riding where the only water
we had access too needed to be treated or pumped! Back to the iodine treatment.. not
ideal but when treating water for 4 and no pump and tablets not available in our gas
station/grocery stores, and a limited supply of fuel, forest fires every where, we had
limited options. (two night later high on a mountain ridge I was able to call customer
service for the pump and they told me my filter was clogged after my 30 liters of clear
water and that I had broken the pump beyond repair.... they said they'd send us a new
pump to Del Norte CO, our next "town" , now in Del Norte, we still don't have a working
pump).
Day 23, 22.5 miles.
Yesterday must have been a fluke, because today was brutal, we fought for our miles
with everything we had. Up, down, rough roads and then we hit the tent caterpillars.
What a tragedy, whole groves of Aspens dead from these little pests. At times the
ground was literally moving with the masses. It was impossible to not ride over them,
and if you stopped on the road even for a few moments they climbed onto our legs and
bikes. A couple years of drought, and they have taken over, in a few years I'd be
surprised if there were any Aspen groves left in northern New Mexico. We made camp
12 miles short of our goal for the day and quickly climbed into our tents to avoid the
creepy crawlies...
Day 24, 35.5 miles.
We started the day with a fast drop of almost 1000 feet on pavement, what a great way
to start the day, but of course it was followed by climbing back up to our starting
elevation. We are back in the trees and climbing to over 10,000 feet it's up, it's down.
We joke about the Great Divide and when you think you know whats coming, you are
thrown a wild curve ball and today is no different. We spend a good part of the morning
climbing thinking of the long down hill stretch that is coming up and when we reach the
top we are thrilled to find the road in better shape for the down hill, and we start down..
Then we see the road grader coming toward us and we find the the "good' road has just
become a nightmare as the grader is "fixing" the road. We spend the next 10 miles
dodging, rocks, chatter marks, berms of debris, holes and piles of sand and our dram of
a few miles of effortless downhill become a mix of terror and cursing as we brake
swerve, wash out and rattle down the "road". We grind our way up and down and push
into the early evening looking for a water source. The forest service roads in this part of
the state are in rough shape, great for ATV's and the like but in a truck many would be
close to impassible. I doubt any of these roads would still be open in our local/home
Northwest Forests. For biking they work but as fully loaded tourers the going can be
rough and slow as you bounce down and around boulders, ledges and slopes full of
both angular and round rocks. Going up we are often back in the hike a bike mode..
We made our highest camp yet and camped near 10,000 feet.
Day 25, 37 miles
We got up and started the climb to over 10,900 feet and with a little extra walk we made
it to 11,000 feet. We topped out and rode along Brazous Ridge for a few miles. It was
beautiful and inspiring, to be riding along a ridge at over 10, 900 feet. For folks at home
it's higher than Mount Baker. We rode and rode and then started the descent. We
bounced and crashed as we dropped toward the Colorado border. At times some or all
of us were walking down the hills as they were so treacherous with our loads. We
finally got into the smoother and more gentle up and downs of the day and found
ourselves crossing out of New Mexico into Colorado. We were thrilled to have finally
made it "somewhere". It was a good feeling to feel like we had made some progress.
We turn a corner to find ourselves in the middle of a small cattle drive, where the
"cowboys" use not only horses but pickup trucks and ATV's.
We climbed up to a paved road for a 14 mile ride to the next dirt road and were looking
forward to burgers and fries at the restaurant/bar on our maps. Much to our dismay the
place was boarded up so we pushed on to our dirt road intersection which our maps
showed had a store and restaurant, which was a good thing as were were getting low/
out of food. As we started on the long down hill I noticed a weird shimmy from my rear
end and discovered the rock bouncing of the morning had damaged my rear tire to the
point that the tire was near failure. a quick tire change later we were rocketing down
and down toward the store and our return to dirt..
Ugh! the store is closed and the "For sale" sign is looking pretty new. I approach some
locals who are a little shocked by my size/dress/odor? and we talk about options and
they mention a campground 4 miles up the road that has a small store. We push on
and the kids are stellar with their ability to push on thru hunger and head winds and a
long climb looking for food/water and bed. 7 miles later we find the campground and
buy out the majority of their store. Mac and cheese, chips, Big Texas cinnamon rolls for
breakfast, milk, candy bars and ice cream. we retire to one of their RV sites and
proceed to sit in borrowed chairs and inhale junk food. Ina and I take advantage of the
"bath house" that doesn't have showers butt a big clawfoot bathtub. Wiley is amazed at
the lack of building codes as the campground has been built and maintained in the
"ranch" style. Bare wires, splices, creative plumbing, making things work with whats on
hand and with basic skills.
We are thrilled to have food and running water and we go to sleep listening to the ATV's
race up and down the road.
Day 26 29 Miles.
We know we are in for some climbing today as we are approaching the high point of the
Bike route almost 12,000 feet. We are still dreaming of the Burgers we missed out on
yesterday and we power up the road towards our next town of Platora, CO. Platora is
the "end of the road" and in the fall if you don't leave before the first snow you will spend
a long lonely winter in a beautiful but desolate place. Platora has a number of homes
and lodges yet no one spends the winter as propane tanks often freeze and the weather
is brutal. We find our burgers and some great conversations along with a great little
"store" where we are able to restock for the next couple of days. We regretfully leave
the "food" and conversation and ride out and up into the mountains. The day grinds by
as we climb and drop and then climb again climbing to our high point of 11,600 feet
before we make camp at 11, 500 feet. The winds were howling as we made camp but
it was late, we had fresh water, and the first flat ground for miles. We hunkered down
for dinner in the cold weather clothing we hauled thru the heat and deserts and hoped
that the wind would die as the sun went down. No luck on the winds, but the views
were incredible and we felt good to have climbed so high and far today.
We know we are in for some climbing today as we are approaching the high point of the
Bike route almost 12,000 feet. We are still dreaming of the Burgers we missed out on
yesterday and we power up the road towards our next town of Platora, CO. Platora is
the "end of the road" and in the fall if you don't leave before the first snow you will spend
a long lonely winter in a beautiful but desolate place. Platora has a number of homes
and lodges yet no one spends the winter as propane tanks often freeze and the weather
is brutal. We find our burgers and some great conversations along with a great little
"store" where we are able to restock for the next couple of days. We regretfully leave
the "food" and conversation and ride out and up into the mountains. The day grinds by
as we climb and drop and then climb again climbing to our high point of 11,600 feet
before we make camp at 11, 500 feet. The winds were howling as we made camp but
it was late, we had fresh water, and the first flat ground for miles. We hunkered down
for dinner in the cold weather clothing we hauled thru the heat and deserts and hoped
that the wind would die as the sun went down. No luck on the winds, but the views
were incredible and we felt good to have climbed so high and far today.
Day 27, 38 miles
Ina and I didn't sleep much as the winds howled the the tents flexed and moaned thru
the night. We got up with the sun warming our tens and quickly got packed up and into
the tree line to get a break form the wind. Ina who had been doing great was suffering
form the altitude, with some early signs of altitude sickness. We had miles to go before
any descent would happen and we did't want to back track so she pushed on. We
climbed and dropped and rode by Summitville, which is now a major superfund site and
were amazed at the size of the operation at 11,000 feet. we finally made the high point
and the kids and I climbed up to 12,000 to say we had. We had a quick celebration with
Ina curling up on the ground trying to stay warm and awake on the windy pass,(Indiana
Pass). And then down, down down, we had a 4000 foot drop to Del Norte our next
touch of civilization. the road was better than most of the stuff we had ridden in New
Mexico and we made great time. There were spots of deep loose gravel that added a
pucker factor but as we dropped the temps rose and we found our selves stripping our
layers and Ina feeling much, much better. We were feeling great as we hit pavement a
little more than ten miles from Del Norte. We had pavement, a downhill slope, and a tail
wind! Yippe!, then riding sweep I see my nightmare coming true as Wiley tumbles head
first into the pavement at speed. Ina hears the crash and dumps her bike in her haste
to stop and get back to Wiley. I lock up my brakes and drop my bike in the road as
Wiley started getting up. HE staggered to the side of the road and laid back down as I
did a quick check on him then started dragging our tow bikes off the road. Wiley's foot
had slipped off his pedal and had gone under his back wheel at high speed which sent
him flying grinding his gloves legs and his upper lip into the roadway. Luckily his long
sleeve fleece protected his arms. We cleaned him up and made him comfortable in a
crazy creek chair, with food water, and clothing. Wiley wasn't riding anywhere!
Maya and I headed to town at a fast clip, her speedometer read into the 30's as we
spun down the road toward town. Along the way we finally got Cell service and made a
call to a healthfood cafe/store that also rented a funky cabin by the night. We got the
cabin and the owners daughter called her boyfriend who came to the store to meet with
me when we rode in a few minutes later. Justin was great and he took me back up the
road in his girlfriends car where we picked Wiley and his bike up and brought him back
to the cabin. We gladly paid Justin for his time and gas and he went home with a little
extra.
During all this we all meet Matthew and Katlin. These two were also riding the Great
divide and they were in the bike packing mode, and riding 80-90 miles a day. We have
been riding for 22 or 23 days with rest days and they had caught up with us in 10 days.
Very impressive.... they had stopped to meet Ina and Wiley on the road, and then meet
Maya in the cafe, where they struck up a great conversations where they offered Maya
to drop her load and ride to them to Salida, in the next day and a half, where Matthews
mother lived and she could wait for us there. we figure it will take us three of four days
to get there. Neat couple of folks with incredible stamina, and drive.. may their ride be
good....
Day 28, rest day
So here we sit in this funky cabin with a few channels on the TV, limited internet and a
decent grocery store down the road!
Wiley wounds are looking good and he is game to try and ride tomorrow. Bike
maintenance is happening on the porch between tending to the blog, Wiley's wounds,
and everything else that happens on a rest day.
The bikes are taking a bit of time, they are getting ridden hard and it seems as if things
are constantly loosening up and it is a constant job to keep brakes tuned and derailuers
working smoothly.
We'll head off soon to the grocery store where the kids want to have more say in the
menu and what will keep them moving.
Till next time thank for tuning in
Cheers
Rob
Ina and I didn't sleep much as the winds howled the the tents flexed and moaned thru
the night. We got up with the sun warming our tens and quickly got packed up and into
the tree line to get a break form the wind. Ina who had been doing great was suffering
form the altitude, with some early signs of altitude sickness. We had miles to go before
any descent would happen and we did't want to back track so she pushed on. We
climbed and dropped and rode by Summitville, which is now a major superfund site and
were amazed at the size of the operation at 11,000 feet. we finally made the high point
and the kids and I climbed up to 12,000 to say we had. We had a quick celebration with
Ina curling up on the ground trying to stay warm and awake on the windy pass,(Indiana
Pass). And then down, down down, we had a 4000 foot drop to Del Norte our next
touch of civilization. the road was better than most of the stuff we had ridden in New
Mexico and we made great time. There were spots of deep loose gravel that added a
pucker factor but as we dropped the temps rose and we found our selves stripping our
layers and Ina feeling much, much better. We were feeling great as we hit pavement a
little more than ten miles from Del Norte. We had pavement, a downhill slope, and a tail
wind! Yippe!, then riding sweep I see my nightmare coming true as Wiley tumbles head
first into the pavement at speed. Ina hears the crash and dumps her bike in her haste
to stop and get back to Wiley. I lock up my brakes and drop my bike in the road as
Wiley started getting up. HE staggered to the side of the road and laid back down as I
did a quick check on him then started dragging our tow bikes off the road. Wiley's foot
had slipped off his pedal and had gone under his back wheel at high speed which sent
him flying grinding his gloves legs and his upper lip into the roadway. Luckily his long
sleeve fleece protected his arms. We cleaned him up and made him comfortable in a
crazy creek chair, with food water, and clothing. Wiley wasn't riding anywhere!
Maya and I headed to town at a fast clip, her speedometer read into the 30's as we
spun down the road toward town. Along the way we finally got Cell service and made a
call to a healthfood cafe/store that also rented a funky cabin by the night. We got the
cabin and the owners daughter called her boyfriend who came to the store to meet with
me when we rode in a few minutes later. Justin was great and he took me back up the
road in his girlfriends car where we picked Wiley and his bike up and brought him back
to the cabin. We gladly paid Justin for his time and gas and he went home with a little
extra.
During all this we all meet Matthew and Katlin. These two were also riding the Great
divide and they were in the bike packing mode, and riding 80-90 miles a day. We have
been riding for 22 or 23 days with rest days and they had caught up with us in 10 days.
Very impressive.... they had stopped to meet Ina and Wiley on the road, and then meet
Maya in the cafe, where they struck up a great conversations where they offered Maya
to drop her load and ride to them to Salida, in the next day and a half, where Matthews
mother lived and she could wait for us there. we figure it will take us three of four days
to get there. Neat couple of folks with incredible stamina, and drive.. may their ride be
good....
Day 28, rest day
So here we sit in this funky cabin with a few channels on the TV, limited internet and a
decent grocery store down the road!
Wiley wounds are looking good and he is game to try and ride tomorrow. Bike
maintenance is happening on the porch between tending to the blog, Wiley's wounds,
and everything else that happens on a rest day.
The bikes are taking a bit of time, they are getting ridden hard and it seems as if things
are constantly loosening up and it is a constant job to keep brakes tuned and derailuers
working smoothly.
We'll head off soon to the grocery store where the kids want to have more say in the
menu and what will keep them moving.
Till next time thank for tuning in
Cheers
Rob